Wednesday, 5 September 2007

Today I...had Shish Taouk for dinner...

...so its a good thing I'm not kissing anyone good night because I think I ate a few cloves of garlic!

I don't have a lot to say today other than the fact that I wanted to add some commentary to the photos I posted on Smugmug. Yesterday I got to go for a tour of the Burj Al Arab. For hotel geeks like me that is a big freakin' deal!

This hotel has a PR machine behind it and has really been the first thing to position Dubai as a destination in the minds of most people. They even created a new rating for themselves - they call themselves a 7 Star hotel. Presumably because no other hotel could possibly come close to that level. It is an amazing sail shaped building that sits out on the Indian Ocean just slightly off shore. The building is phenomenal...

...the interior design on the other hand is completely garish and over the top. It is this crazy Arabian - Asian fusion. A mad mish mash of every possible design principle you can imagine.

It needs to be over the top to live up to expectation, but this is just whack. Unfortunately they didn't let me take a lot of pictures in the suite we saw but I did get some great photos of the city (and the haze) from there.

Very cool experience. Very happy to have had that view of Dubai before I move from this desert to another one.

Also, throwing back to a previous post...my nephew made the most astute comment about my Call to Prayer post. I was baffled by how the people who live in these barren unforgiving lands with just killing climates choose to subscribe to a harsh religion. My lovely 12 year old lad said, "But if the land is harsh and the climate is harsh then wouldn't the people assume that God is also harsh?" Not all good looks with that kid I say! I thought that was a pretty insightful observation.

Today I...am not sad my time in Dubai is nearing an end for this trip.

Saturday, 1 September 2007

Today I...bought knock off Chanel shades in Karama

I also drank about three litres of water and didn't need to use the lou even once.

It was 43 degrees, but with the humidity felt like about 48 (Hayley, that is like the "windshield" factor, only different). I am definitely getting accustomed to the all over body glow. All I have to say is thank goodness for hotel laundry services!

In the past 24 hours I have experienced two very different sides of Dubai.

Last night I went for drinks and dinner at Madinat Jumeirah - an area that houses two resort hotels, many restaurants, night clubs, wine bars, and Sheesha bars as well as a recently built Souk. But it is definitely the sterilized, air conditioned, westernized version of a souk. The architechture is beautiful and evocative of arabian desert structures, but lets face it, it is at most 5 years old. A lot of expats and young arabs hang out in the restaurants and bars here.

Got a wonderful view of the Burj al Arab - the famous sail shaped hotel that put Dubai on the map as a tourist destination. And actually got to have cocktails sitting outdoors. It had cooled down to about 35 degrees, so the locals thought it was fabulous patio weather. So much for the desert being cold at night!

Then today one of the girls from the Fairmont Dubai took me out driving to see the city. Unfortunately it was so humid that it was incredibly hazy and the lense on my camera kept fogging up and it was just too too hot to stand outside or walk around to take photos so I did not get nearly as many pictures as I had hoped. The buildings here are amazing. And the pace of construction is staggering. On average they complete three floors per week on the big sky scrapers here. They have masses and masses of cheap labour from India and Pakistan and who knows what the building codes are like. Certainly there is little regard for health and safety standards and all workers are on a 6 day work week putting in 12 hours each day. It sure is dramatic to see these buildings rising out of the desert. But I am not sure I'd want to be living on the 37th floor - or working on the 172nd floor of the Burj Dubai when it is complete. Soon to be the tallest building in the world, this monster is going to be a full 200 m taller than Tapei 101.

We also went to a souk in Karama. Where we haggled with a vendor for Pashminas and my fancy new shades. He wanted to charge me 45 Dirhams for one particular pashmina because he could tell I really liked it. In the end I walked away and he ended up coming back with the price we wanted. And then when I got back to the room I did the math...I was arguing over paying him the equivalent of $12 USD for something that usually costs around $80 - $200 USD. Crazy.

But I was so hot and grumpy by that point I actually managed to pull of a pretty good "you're not taking me for a ride because I'm a foreigner" negotiation.

This evening after dinner of Hummus, Fatoush, Sambousek, and Kebbeh in Deira, thinking about the total diquotomy between the very rich here and those who work so hard under inhumane conditions for almost nothing, I paid it forward by tipping a security guard 10 Dirhams for letting us park where we were not supposed to. I asked my friend how much he would make in a month. She said probably not more than 500 Dirhams. Such a tiny amount for me. I can't even comprehend it.

Today I...am tired from a long hot day in a far away land (and am hoping I can find good postcards since my camera lense was foggy most of the day)...am seeing clearly how privledged I am...am curious about what tomorrow holds.

Wednesday, 29 August 2007

Today I...heard the call to prayer

And when I did it just happened to be on the Muslim holy day and I just happened to be in the oldest building that exists in Dubai. It was built in 1896 and inhabited by the al-Maktoum family, the ruling family in Dubai, until 1958.

Dubai is like Calgary in one significant way; it bulldozes and demolishes its historical buildings to make room for bigger, taller, shinier with no regard for history or culture. There is evidence of human settlement in the area as far back as 8000 BC, yet this is a city without history. Its people have history, but the place does not.

It was a scorching hot desert day. There was no one there except for one woman and one man in full traditional dress. I was standing in a sandy courtyard, surrounded by buildings the colour of the sand. The sun was so intense I had to stand still just to be able to breath. And looking around I could not see a single sky scraper. Or grand hotel. Or luxury condo tower. Or high end car. Or shopping centre. All I could see was desert, and sky.

And then I heard a voice that stopped me in my tracks. It sounded ancient and mournful and fervent. And while it did not help me understand a culture that I continue to be baffled by, I did in that moment feel and understand the power of ancient devotion to an ancient religion.

However, I have to say, why one would subscribe to what (in my very biased very Western view) is a punishing faith in an already punishing climate and a punishing existance I cannot comprehend.

Dubai is to the Middle East what Singapore is to Asia. It is the "light" version. The Coles Notes. There are amazing buildings designed by amazing architects. Soon enough "The World's Largest..." everything will be here. It is brighter and bigger and newer and more expensive and more outlandish than anything you could possibly imagine emerging from the Middle East.

But then I get on the elevator with 5 or 6 men in traditional Dish-dash and it feels like I am so foreign in such a foreign land.

Or I walk along Dubai Creek in Bastakiya - just a tourist doing the tourist thing - and I am not only the only caucasian amoung thousands and thousands of people. I am the only woman.

And no one harrassed me. I was grateful for my mirrored shades so I could let my gaze travel where it would without worrying about making eye contact. But I could see how they looked at me - many amused, some clearly affronted by my brazeness, some I just don't want to think about what thoughts lay behind their eyes. And some spoke loudly in my direction. But having no idea what they'd said I just carried on. Shoulders back, head high, walking with purpose like I knew exactly where I was going.

And even though that was uncomfortable and disconcerting I cannot wrap my mind around the alternative. When I see a woman in full Abaya and Hijab I have a very strong reaction emotionally. And when I see a woman in full burkah it is even stronger. It is amazing how it feels like a physical barrier. Like I can't look them in the eye or speak to them. Which isn't the case at all.

I feel afronted by it though. I feel indignant and rebellious and angry on behalf of these women who are forced into darkness and silence and invisibility. But I know that is my Western perspective and while many of them merely accept it, apparently many of them prefer it.

I am grateful to have had this gentle introduction given that I am going to be in Cairo during Ramadan and - given the development possibilities in the works - I could be working in much more stringent and intense cultures very soon.

Today I...am more grateful than ever to have been born when I was, where I was.

Wednesday, 22 August 2007

Today I...gave myself a coronary!

And possibly a minor stroke...or post traumatic stress disorder.

Once I got my air fare booked and what is at least a tentative itinerary for my jet set around Africa I was feeling pretty chill about this whole two month sojourn on the other side of the world. Or so I thought.

I should likely have taken it as a sign when I locked myself out of my condo last night. I never lock myself out. In fact, I would go so far as to say I am marginally obsessive-compulsive about triple checking that I have my keys. The truly stupid thing was that I had already had a super busy day and had gone out with my family and was back for the night. I wouldn't even have left my condo if it were not for the fact that earlier in the day, due to my herculean upper body strength, I broke my mail key off in the lock on my mail box. But I just needed to fix it RIGHT THEN. So I left my condo. Without my keys.

I did, however, have my blackberry.

Neither of the neighbors who have a key to my condo were home so my lovely sister had to trek all the way across the city to let me in. After I called her on my blackberry. Handy things them blackberries!

That should have sent me a message. I've got a lot on my mind. I've got two big projects at work that have to produce an exceptional result. I'm on my way to Dubai to take on 4 more. Its a lot to think about.

So today I...went for lunch at the Sheraton Suites. Loved that. Saw so many people I love and got to catch up with them. But really I went to pick up a courier package.

That had my air tickets in it.

Old school, its true. When I went to Singapore I didn't even print out my e itinerary. They're Blackberry compatible now. This makes me a happy girl. But apparently when you fly Egypt Air for one leg of your 74.7 leg journey you have to have a paper ticket.

How quaint.

So I had my envelope containing my travel for the next two months in my hands. I have a very strong sensory memory of holding it while I chatted with a few dozen different people. I was playing with the binder clip that was holding my whizzy new 4GB flash drive to my old school, not so whizzy air tickets.

And then I kissed everyone good bye and hopped in my car to carry on as the International Woman of Mystery I have become.

Until about 8:27 pm. When I had a terrible feeling.

And I looked at the coffee table where I was sure I had put my envelope.

And it wasn't there.

So I went through all the luggage and clothes and mini pharmacy I have scattered around my living room searching for my envelope.

And I did the same in my office - and my bedroom - and my bathrooms - and my laundry room - and my front closet....and then I did it again. And then I tore apart my car.

And then I thought perhaps it would be legitimate if I panicked just a little.

I was having visions of possibly placing it on the roof of the car as I got in and it flying off into the Bow River as I crossed under Centre Street bridge. Someone did honk at me there...I couldn't figure out why.

It turns out I left my envelope at the Sheraton. And I set it down a good 30 minutes before I left the building. But in my mind I never took my hands off of it until I got in the car.

When the lovely Sebastian (who saved my arse and helped me stop hyperventilating when he informed me he had found it) handed me the envelope he said "Do you have a lot on your mind Teri?" Apparently so.

Today I....am feeling a little distracted...am so relieved...am going to take this as a wake up call to be vigilant about that which is important not to lose.

Wednesday, 15 August 2007

Today I...hit the wall!

I was thinking I was a super hero. One 11.5 hour sleep on the day I arrived home and I was good to go. Completely over jet lag.

Not so much.

Apparently it takes 24 hours to recover for every time zone you cross. So its not unusual to get hit hard 5 or 6 days after a jet set.

Today I woke up feeling so sluggish and tired and foggy. I had a large triple shot latte with my bagel during my 8 am conference call.

Then I had a double shot latte at 10:30.

Then I had coffee at lunch.

Then I had a red bull at 3:30.

And none of it helped. Not remotely perky. So brain dead. A complete waste of space today.

So I had a nap instead of working out.

And now I feel sluggish and like I need a triple shot latte with a red bull chaser.

Instead I am having a rye ginger. Which, just for the record, I did not mix Benefibre into. When you travel everyone will tell you all about traveller's diarrhea. They love to talk about it. Love to tell you their most horrifying, most embarrassing, most "T.M.I." stories ever.

What they don't tell you is that the reverse is also true. So Benefibre has become my friend. And the other day I forgot to take it. So I was chatting with my friend Bonnie and fixing myself a cocktail and thought...hey...I should take some fibre. So I had a Benefibre cocktail. And she thought that was nuts. But I thought it was efficient.

Was thinking I should write the company and let them know that...you know...it really does make it easier to get your daily fibre!

Today I...am having a reality check on this new lifestyle...am a fan of the fibre...am hoping I have more energy tomorrow.

Friday, 3 August 2007

Today I...partied in Singapore!

Wow! We had the LONGEST....LOOOOOOOONGEST day seeing competitive set hotels. I can't even tell you how exhausting and hot and ridiculous today was. But it was hotel geek heaven seeing our competitor hotels too.

Then...after a quick "freshen" we had a cocktail reception.

On the Helipad.

On the 72nd story of the hotel.

That's right - cocktails on the helipad. Yo! Hopefully I'll figure out how to post pictures soon.

And then we went for a very traditional and crazy Chinese dinner on the East Coast of Singapore...I was so exhausted I could hardly keep my eyes open on the bus ride to the open air "hawker" where we ate a 17 quadzillion course meal. I ate...in no particular order...veg, squid (inb various forms), jelly fish, stone fish, Durian (the most dis-gust-ing "fruit" EVER), pepper crab and...Chilli crab. YUM! Chilli crab was full on the messiest meal I have ever eaten, but delicious. It was a gorgeous warm night and we got to eat outside which is a bit unheard of here in August. So a great time.

I was SO SO SO tired when I got on the bus and went back to the hotel I could not wait to go to my room and crash. But got invited for a "nightcap" somewhere "close by". Thinking I really should socialize with my new team I went along.......a 20 minute cab ride later we were at St. James Power Station - an old power station that has been converted into 6 or 7 bars and night clubs. Very very cool. Good times had by all. And now...well lets just say I have hopefully impressed the one person who can put in a super good word for me and also made a very cute new friend (two very different people)...and it is 1:50 pm Calgary time and I am going to have to work hard not to regret this tomorrow.

Today I...am going with the "you only live once" philosophy and am hoping that being myself is going to work for me.

Wednesday, 1 August 2007

Today I...am officially spoiled for life...

It's all over for me. I just have to accept it. A new standard has been set and it's now just the way I roll.

After about 3 hours sleep in Hong Kong I started my day off right flying Singapore Airlines Business Class. Looking all chic and put together because I was flying straight to meetings I sat sipping capuccino in my wide purple seat. Nothing like a perfect capuccino at 30+ Thousand feet I say! Followed by fresh fruit and a frittata. I am going to have to be in the gym every day!

A very lovely gentleman was waiting at the airport for me to take care of my bags and whisk me to the hotel in a black BMW sedan.

After finally making it to my host hotel - I can't even tell you how many hours I was in transit, I completely lost track at about 28 - freshening and firing off a few quick emails I joined the rest of my team for meetings. It has been quite an education today.

Managed to hold it together until now - 11:31 pm here. The floor moved dramatically a couple of times and I definitely had some challenges with my motor skills over dinner (I'm a spilly talker at the best of times, let alone when dealing with no sleep and a 14 hour time difference), but I managed to stay focused.

We had a 10 course (yes, that's right - TEN course) Chinese Feast for dinner. And I have to say, I feel less full than when I have brunch at the Banff Springs. Fabulous food. Including my new fave - drunken shrimp. They take live prawns and pour a potent liquor over them and they proceed to have a party in the bowl - jumping around all over the place. Then they cook them in front of you and serve them. Its always nice to meet your dinner before you eat it. "Hmmm...good evening...don't you look delicious tonight!"

The meal was capped off with 5 varieties of Moon Cake. A special cake sold only starting 14 Aug of each year for 4 weeks. It celebrates an ancient Chinese legend...most things here celebrate or honor something ancient we are finding. The hotel does over $2 Million in sales of Moon Cake each year and the sellers actually have a "Moon Cake" quota over and above their quarterly sales goals.

We also learned that August is the Ghost Month - a period when the gates of hell are opened and it is important to appease the spirits....and not a good time to do business, get married, have babies, etc. So - we thought August was a bad business month in North America, imagine if the gates of hell opened!

I am beyond tired but hopeful that means I will sleep for a full 6 hours and then hit the gym to run off all that Moon Cake.

Today I...am travelling in serious style...am captivated by an ancient culture...am thinking I have just scratched the surface of all I am going to learn in the next few years.